FASHION ISSUES | Designers Fashion A Go-Slow Future For Catwalks And Collections

MILAN – From Armani to Gucci, top fashion houses are re-designing their calendars to slow down the frantic pace of catwalks shows and new collections, as the coronavirus pandemic forces a rethink of the way the industry works.

Luxury labels are scaling back the number of collections they show at fashion weeks across the year in London, Paris, Milan and New York or at other events in exotic locations.

After more than two months of lockdown, with shops shut across the globe and manufacturing sites idled, the $310 billion luxury goods sector is on course for a 2020 sales drop of up to 35%, consultancy Bain estimated.

Brands are grappling with piles of unsold stock and the prospect of widespread discounts that risk denting their aura of exclusivity as well as profits.

U.S. designer Michael Kors was the latest to call for a post-virus slowdown in the fashion calendar on Monday, as he pulled out of New York’s show in September.

He said he would only make two collections a year – one for spring/summer and one for fall/winter, skipping so-called resort and pre-fall collection that many high – end labels have recently begun producing to refresh stores in the winter and over summer.

These collection showcase holiday wear for foreign travel that jetsetters may have to forgo this year.

These have added to the number of designers’ creations, capsule and collaborations that critics say are out of sync with consumer’s needs, particularly in a global recession. A cruise or resort collection is typically shown in May and delivered to stores in November.

Robert Burke, founder of luxury retail consultancy Robert Burke Associates, said the move towards fewer collections fits with a consumer shift from disposable fashion.

‘Buying things that you know you’ll only have for a short time period or go out of fashion immediately doesn’t seem attractive right now’.

Slow Fashion

The debate about fashion industry excess pre-dated the crisis, but has been given a sense of urgency by the pandemic, which is pressuring brands to cut costs and shed inventory without losing to much money.

Kors said deliveries of its products would from now on be scheduled to arrive in store incrementally over the spring/summer and fall/winter season, more closely reflecting ‘how customers actually live and shop’.

‘It is imperative that we give the consumer time to absorb the fall deliveries, which will just be arriving in September, and not confuse them with an overabundance of additional ideas, new seasons, products, and images’.

Armani, in an open letter to fashion trade publication WWD, said luxury labels should stop mimicking hectic fast fashion delivery schedules.

‘It makes no sense for one of my jackets or suit to live in the shop for three weeks before becoming obsolete, replaced by new goods that are not too different’, he wrote.

Alessandro Michele, who turned Gucci into a cash cow for French owner Kering, has also said he would cut the label’s year shows to two from five.

And in its end-May earnings presentation, Ralph Lauren said it had rebalanced its assortments towards ‘core’, less seasonal products, which have faster lead times and less mark down risk.

CFO Jane Nielsen said the summer collection would stay in stores through August ‘to maximize full-price selling’.

The brand will also set aside some finished products for upcoming seasonal collections, even if that means keeping clothes in inventory longer than usual.

Brands like Gucci and LVMH’s Dior have used more frequent collection and expensive events in exotic places to lure a rich, but also voracious, clientele, particularly in China.

With luxury spend hit by the crisis, some industry insiders say it no longer makes sense to have such huge marketing expenses – a fashion show can cost well over $1 million.

The move towards showing and producing less also reflects a power shift between brands and big U.S. department stores, which long dictated the timing of products releases to keep their stands looking fresh.

Multiple deliveries allowed the stores’ sales associates to call their clientele regularly, saying ‘Come in, we’ve got some new products’, Ron Frasch, former president of Saks Fifth Avenue, told Reuters.

That puts winter coats in shops in the middle of the summer and gives department stores leeway to discount as they see fit –  something that Frasch said was a ‘bloodbath’ for most brands.

With the pandemic accelerating the demise of Neiman Marcus and other top U.S. retailers, the model is now increasingly being called into question, he said.

Yet some brands are resisting the call for a leaner fashion schedule. Chanel, which in a show of strength increased prices in May, said it would stick to six collections a year.


Majida El Roumi To Perform At The Qubba Palace’s First – Ever Concert

Majida El Roumi is set to perform at the Qubba Palace in Egypt soon. The Lebanese singer’s performance on April 2 will mark the first – ever public concert to be held on the grounds of the Qubba Palace since it was build in 1872. El Roumi announced the news on  her Instagram account with … Continue reading Majida El Roumi To Perform At The Qubba Palace’s First – Ever Concert

Lady Kitty Spencer On Being Dolce & Gabbana’s New Global Ambassador

Lady Kitty Spencer as been appointed as the global ambassador for Dolce & Gabbana. It’s no surprise that Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana would tap Princess Diana’s niece for a global ambassadorship. The design duo’s infatuation with royalty and aristocracy has been a long defining element in inspiring the rich collections of the Italian fashion house. … Continue reading Lady Kitty Spencer On Being Dolce & Gabbana’s New Global Ambassador

FASHION | Saudi Arabia Taps Ex-Parson Dean Burak Cakmak To Lead Kingdom’s Fashion Commission

Saudi Arabia has announced the announced the appointment of Burak Cakmak, the former dean for the College of Fashion at Parsons School of Design at The News School, to lead the Kingdom’s Fashion Commission, according to an announcement by the Ministry of Culture. Cakmak will officially led the Fashion Commission as CEO, with the task … Continue reading FASHION | Saudi Arabia Taps Ex-Parson Dean Burak Cakmak To Lead Kingdom’s Fashion Commission

ROYALS | UK’s Princess Eugenie Names Baby Son August, Buckingham Palace Says

Britain’s Princess Eugenie, granddaughter of Queen Elizabeth, and her husband Jack Brooksbank have named their son August Philip Hawke Brooksbank, Buckingham Palace said on Saturday. The couple’s first child was born earlier in February, and his name includes an apparent not to the queen’s 99-year-old husband Prince Philip, who is in hospital on a precautionary … Continue reading ROYALS | UK’s Princess Eugenie Names Baby Son August, Buckingham Palace Says

ROYALS | Prince Harry, Megan Won’t Return To Royal Family Roles: Buckingham Palace

Prince Harry and his wife Meghan made their final split with the British royal family, telling Queen Elizabeth that they will not be returning as working members of monarchy, Buckingham Palace said on Friday. Harry and Meghan, who announced they are expecting their second child on Sunday, shocked senior royals last year by announcing plans … Continue reading ROYALS | Prince Harry, Megan Won’t Return To Royal Family Roles: Buckingham Palace

ROYALS | ‘Overjoyed’ Harry And Meghan Expecting Second Child

Britain’s Prince Harry and his wife Meghan, the Duke and Duchess of Sussex, are expecting their second child, a spokesperson for the couple said on Sunday. Harry, 36, and Meghan, 39, stepped back from royal duties in January 2020 and moved with their son Archie to Southern California to live a more independent life and … Continue reading ROYALS | ‘Overjoyed’ Harry And Meghan Expecting Second Child

SKIN | The Pro’s Guide To Managing Sensitive Skin This Winter

‘Some people are born with sensitive skin; other people have it temporarily‘, explain dermatologist Amy Wechsler of the surge of rough, ruddy complexion during winter. ‘It’s very common due to cold climate, as well as stress, travel, or sleep deprivation‘. No matter which camp you fall in – seasonal or year – round sufferer – if your skin … Continue reading SKIN | The Pro’s Guide To Managing Sensitive Skin This Winter

FASHION | Balenciaga To Unveil Next Collection Via Futuristic Video Game

Balenciaga’s creative director Demna Gvasalia is to unveil his Fall/winter 2021 collection via a futuristic video game. The unusual format is the latest alternative to the runway for the Georgian designer during the ongoing Covid -19 pandemic, and a statement from the Spanish fashion house said the main collective will feature solely in Afterworld: The Age … Continue reading FASHION | Balenciaga To Unveil Next Collection Via Futuristic Video Game

Loading…

Something went wrong. Please refresh the page and/or try again.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s