FASHION ISSUES | Designers Fashion A Go-Slow Future For Catwalks And Collections

MILAN – From Armani to Gucci, top fashion houses are re-designing their calendars to slow down the frantic pace of catwalks shows and new collections, as the coronavirus pandemic forces a rethink of the way the industry works.

Luxury labels are scaling back the number of collections they show at fashion weeks across the year in London, Paris, Milan and New York or at other events in exotic locations.

After more than two months of lockdown, with shops shut across the globe and manufacturing sites idled, the $310 billion luxury goods sector is on course for a 2020 sales drop of up to 35%, consultancy Bain estimated.

Brands are grappling with piles of unsold stock and the prospect of widespread discounts that risk denting their aura of exclusivity as well as profits.

U.S. designer Michael Kors was the latest to call for a post-virus slowdown in the fashion calendar on Monday, as he pulled out of New York’s show in September.

He said he would only make two collections a year – one for spring/summer and one for fall/winter, skipping so-called resort and pre-fall collection that many high – end labels have recently begun producing to refresh stores in the winter and over summer.

These collection showcase holiday wear for foreign travel that jetsetters may have to forgo this year.

These have added to the number of designers’ creations, capsule and collaborations that critics say are out of sync with consumer’s needs, particularly in a global recession. A cruise or resort collection is typically shown in May and delivered to stores in November.

Robert Burke, founder of luxury retail consultancy Robert Burke Associates, said the move towards fewer collections fits with a consumer shift from disposable fashion.

‘Buying things that you know you’ll only have for a short time period or go out of fashion immediately doesn’t seem attractive right now’.

Slow Fashion

The debate about fashion industry excess pre-dated the crisis, but has been given a sense of urgency by the pandemic, which is pressuring brands to cut costs and shed inventory without losing to much money.

Kors said deliveries of its products would from now on be scheduled to arrive in store incrementally over the spring/summer and fall/winter season, more closely reflecting ‘how customers actually live and shop’.

‘It is imperative that we give the consumer time to absorb the fall deliveries, which will just be arriving in September, and not confuse them with an overabundance of additional ideas, new seasons, products, and images’.

Armani, in an open letter to fashion trade publication WWD, said luxury labels should stop mimicking hectic fast fashion delivery schedules.

‘It makes no sense for one of my jackets or suit to live in the shop for three weeks before becoming obsolete, replaced by new goods that are not too different’, he wrote.

Alessandro Michele, who turned Gucci into a cash cow for French owner Kering, has also said he would cut the label’s year shows to two from five.

And in its end-May earnings presentation, Ralph Lauren said it had rebalanced its assortments towards ‘core’, less seasonal products, which have faster lead times and less mark down risk.

CFO Jane Nielsen said the summer collection would stay in stores through August ‘to maximize full-price selling’.

The brand will also set aside some finished products for upcoming seasonal collections, even if that means keeping clothes in inventory longer than usual.

Brands like Gucci and LVMH’s Dior have used more frequent collection and expensive events in exotic places to lure a rich, but also voracious, clientele, particularly in China.

With luxury spend hit by the crisis, some industry insiders say it no longer makes sense to have such huge marketing expenses – a fashion show can cost well over $1 million.

The move towards showing and producing less also reflects a power shift between brands and big U.S. department stores, which long dictated the timing of products releases to keep their stands looking fresh.

Multiple deliveries allowed the stores’ sales associates to call their clientele regularly, saying ‘Come in, we’ve got some new products’, Ron Frasch, former president of Saks Fifth Avenue, told Reuters.

That puts winter coats in shops in the middle of the summer and gives department stores leeway to discount as they see fit –  something that Frasch said was a ‘bloodbath’ for most brands.

With the pandemic accelerating the demise of Neiman Marcus and other top U.S. retailers, the model is now increasingly being called into question, he said.

Yet some brands are resisting the call for a leaner fashion schedule. Chanel, which in a show of strength increased prices in May, said it would stick to six collections a year.

Angelina Jolie Discusses Life As A single Mon: ‘I’ve Been Alone A Long Time Now’

Angelina Jolie is opening up about being a single mother of six. The ‘Maleficent’ actress appeared on E!’s ‘Daily Pop’ this week to discuss her upcoming film, ‘Those Who Wish Me Dead’, in which she dished on her life at home with her children. Asked how she juggles it all, from her Hollywood career, humanitarian … Continue reading Angelina Jolie Discusses Life As A single Mon: ‘I’ve Been Alone A Long Time Now’

Madame Tussauds Moves Prince Harry And Meghan Waxworks From Royals

A year after leaving their royal duties to move to Los Angeles, Madame Tussauds has now decided waxwork models of Prince Harry and his wife Meghan now belonging in the attraction’s Hollywood zone and not with the other members of House of Windsor. The couple, the Duke and Duchess of Sussex, quit royal duties to … Continue reading Madame Tussauds Moves Prince Harry And Meghan Waxworks From Royals

Da Vinci’s ‘Head Of Bear’ Drawing Seen Fetching up to $16 Mln

A drawing of a bear’s head by Leonardo da Vinci is seen fetching up to $16.7 million, potentially setting a record, when it heads to auction in July, Christie’s said on Saturday. Measuring 7 cm (just under 3 inches) squared, ‘Head of Bear’ is a silverpoint drawing on a pink – beige paper. The auction … Continue reading Da Vinci’s ‘Head Of Bear’ Drawing Seen Fetching up to $16 Mln

Jennifer Lopez Rocks The Stage In Zuhair Murad Design At Citizen VAX LIVE: The Concert To Reunite The World

U.S. singer and actress Jennifer Lopez was among a number of celebrities who took to the stage at the Citizen VAX LIVE: The Concert To Reunite The World show on Sunday – and she pulled out all the stops with three wardrobe changes, which included a shimmering jumpsuit from Lebanese couturier Zuhair Murad. Performing some … Continue reading Jennifer Lopez Rocks The Stage In Zuhair Murad Design At Citizen VAX LIVE: The Concert To Reunite The World

Ramadan Kareem From Christian Louboutin Beauty

This Holy Month, pamper you loved ones by gifting them beauty treasures from Christian Louboutin Beauty. Full of generosity and appreciation, you 2021 Ramadan promises to be unforgettable. For this special moment, the traditional glossy boxes for lips and fragrances will be dressed in a customised red sleeve featuring a crescent moon and a lantern. To fully embrace the spirit of … Continue reading Ramadan Kareem From Christian Louboutin Beauty

Diptyque’s New Fragrance Traces the Path Of An Iconic Arab Explorer

Celebrating the French fragrance maison‘s 60th anniversary, Diptique’s new launch – Eau Rihla – has a special connection to the Middle East. Named after the Arabic word Rihla, meaning journey, the new frageance was inspired by the 14 century globe – trotting merchant, Ibn Battuta and his travels throughout the known world. Perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin drew his inspiration directly from … Continue reading Diptyque’s New Fragrance Traces the Path Of An Iconic Arab Explorer

Prince Harry And Meghan’s First Netflix Project To Focus On Invictus Games

Britain’s Prince Harry and his wife Meghan will produce their first Netflix Inc. series that will focus on athletes competing in the Invictus Games for injured veterans in the Hague in 2022. The series will provide – the – scenes stories of athletes and organizers as they prepare for the event, which been delayed until next spring … Continue reading Prince Harry And Meghan’s First Netflix Project To Focus On Invictus Games

WELLNESS | What Are Essential Oils, And Do They Work?

Essential oils are often used in aromatherapy, a form of alternative medicine that employs plant extracts to support health and well – being. However, some of the health claims associated with these oils are controversial. The article explains all you need to know about essential oils and their health effects. What Are Essential Oils? Essential oils … Continue reading WELLNESS | What Are Essential Oils, And Do They Work?


Something went wrong. Please refresh the page and/or try again.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s